Kenya, part two - Safari

Took a short flight north to Sweetwaters, Ol Pejeta Conservancy, a game reserve/resort. I had a "tent" looking out at a large watering hole. There was an electric fence down in a ditch to keep people and animals mostly separated but visually they were right there. Giraffes, elephants, zebras, gazelles, wild hogs, birds including the Sacred Ibis. Amazing parade outside my tent flap. This is a very nice tent, big comfortable bed, desk, attached private bathroom. The bonus was a bush hyrex that lived under the thatched roof over the tent. It made a couple of different sounds, one was a horrid screeching. I caught a picture of it in the morning, just visible in the corner.  Was there three nights, I would recommend more time, but it is very spendy. Got there in time for lunch, needless to say the food was excellent; all meals were included. Then we, Samuel the tracker-driver, and I did a long drive about the reserve. Spotted elephants, zebras, baboons, gazelles, water buffalo, oh so many animals. There were black rhinos, white rhinos, chimps. Then at twilight we saw a cheeta. The next morning I went on a guided bird walk and saw dozens of unique birds. Somewhere I have a list marking off all we saw. Managed to spot an eagle-owl in large old tree behind the camp, that was the highlight for me. Then after breakfast more driving; this is a huge reserve with all sorts of different territories. Mostly I just looked and soaked it in. There were people there with serious camera equipment so my little shots taken with this tablet are just that, "snapshots". Samuel was very good at his job, and obviously enjoyed it. He found a lion stalking near a water hole, and he found a leopard by spotting two jackels following it. They were there to pick on the leftovers I guess. They were scared off easily but the leopard just keep on doing its thing giving us annoyed looks. Finally we backed off and it slipped into the brush. I imagine the jackels picked up  where they left off too. The last night we went on a night safari and saw two more lions as well as hyennas, etc. etc. One of the lions we saw had a collar and transmitter on. And oh, I saw everything there except the hippo, so much was spotted in those three days. It was a total success, very glad I went. (Sorry, I can not seem to control the order pictures appear, or their orientation.)

Heading South

Left the mangrove forests and jungle greens, traversed the area damaged by cyclone Larry two years ago. Stopped for lunch at the Seabreeze cafe in the midst of destruction zone at the best greyhound stop I have ever seen. After some pine forest, hours of sugar cane and bananas we are in more arid region with cattle gazing and road signs warning of kangaroos. My first sight of Whitsunday Islands at Bowen took my breath away. Now in Airlie Beach for few days. Very Mediterranean, steep hillside down to harbor. The big decision is which cruise out to the islands should I take? I will go on the Mantaray tomorrow to explore the Whitsundays. All day cruise and snorkelling. Hung out at the Lagoon this afternoon and finished reading "The Chemistry of Tears" by Peter Carey, excellent book. I thought I would have it to read all week, but just zipped through it. Always great characters in his books. Next I will have to find his Kelly Gang book as I think I've read all his others.

Kenya, part one

I flew via Cairo, changing from Royal Air Morac to Kenyan Airways, "The Pride of Africa", because I couldn't leave the international terminal a very kind official went to get my boarding pass for me. He had me wait in a coffee shop next to the information desk. All the while I was waiting, and later too, there were very angry exchanges at that desk. People were yelling and appealing to the crowd for their side of the argument. I don't know if anything ever got settled, but it was an amazing show.

I arrived in Nairobi needing a place for the night as my booking on the tablet didn't complete. Going to the tourist desk I explained which hotel and the rate quoted on the web, he called up and secured a room at that rate. Then I paid for drive to hotel and later drive out to Karen Blixen farm museum. Sitting in traffic I was amazed at a large flock of birds sitting on sign across highway and in trees beside the road. They were huge, kind of a cross between a stork and a buzzard and moved like swimmers in the sky.

It all worked smoothly. This was a 4 or 5 star hotel; they met me with a warm washcloth to clean hands, then served me a glass of tropical juice as I was being checked in. Very nice accommodations, view of the city and real breakfast in restaurant in the morning. Nicest place I ever stayed. That afternoon the same driver picked me up and we went out to see the "Out of Africa" farm. It is beautiful setting and the climate is perfect, high altitude on the equator, I could imagine living there except that it is too far from the ocean.

The strongest image I keep from this drive, I did not take a picture, is of people walking. How to explain? Everywhere there were people walking, lots of people walking, mostly alone and at a steady gait, deliberate, neither fast or slow but like they could walk all day just like that. People everywhere, in city and country, many people - I can't fanthom where they were going, or coming from. A few women carrying bundles on their heads, but mostly just people in work or school apparel, suits and ties, women in business dress. Everywhere people walking. Image of infinite patience.
There were "tatas" - buses, full buses with wonderful names like Despair. Traffic was massive and roads were being built; or at least they had torn up great sections of earth to put in roads, didn't see much work going on. The driver said the roads had all been contracted to China, a government to government arrangement.

At Karen Blixen's farm I saw paintings she had done, much of the furnishings were original as she had sold to friends and when the museum was established they were able to get many things back. The terrain was a lot flatter than I had imagined, but lovely. A young woman guide took me around, a perfect afternoon.

On the way back the driver took me to a tourist trap, I felt I had to buy something. So I got a nice malachite bracelet and a small painting. I managed to lose the bracelet the very next day.

The next morning I was picked up by the tour company I booked for safari and taken to the local airport for a 45 minute flight in a single engine plane to Nanyuki, near the base of Mt. Kenya. I could  see Mt. KIlimanjaro from the air! A driver from Sweetwaters was there to pick me up in a 4-wheel drive Range Rover. I was the only guest arriving that day and the driver named Samuel was assigned to me for my three day stay on safari. He was very easy to get along with, but I didn't always understand his English. And it turned out he was an excellent scout.

Goodbye to Cairns

This has been wonderful introduction to Australia. Starting with the solar eclipse everything has been very dramatic here: rainforest trip with bird and butterfly santuaries; Goya exhibit at art museum; indigenous art (I bought an intricate lino-block print at the Cultural Center, wanted to support local artists as opposed to all the souvenier shops with product from China); flying foxes inhabiting the trees next to public library and taking off at sunset with the wildest screams; wonderful shilouette of hills across the inlet that look just like a Black Kite, the bird in flight; a night of contemporary theater, 'The Colony' by Graham Henderson, at the Jute Theatre; hot sun and cool dips in the pool. The place where sidewalks are power washed and public toilets clean.

Here is list of places I am going next: Airlie Beach; Bundaberg; Maroochydore; Noosa Head; Byron Bay; Coffs Harbour; Bellengen; Nambucca Heads; Port Maquarie and Port Stevens. Aren't they wonderful names.

Morocco Remembered

Before more time passes I must record my visit to Marrakech. Arrived in Casablanca early morning, then flight to Marrakech was three hours late so I missed the hotel pick-up and my great romantic idea of someone holding a sign for me at arrivals. Took a pre-paid taxi into town and the driver with the help of his mobil phone found way to Riad Balkisse in the Medina, the old part of the city. Had to go down walking alley to find door that opened into beautiful tiled courtyard with fountain running. My bed was waiting with spread folded back like a fan and rose petals scattered across the pillows and in the large tiled shower. It turned out that I arrived on a major Muslem holiday so there was cooking in the streets and cartloads of sheep carcass and hides being pulled by man and beast. I very consciously noted my way out of the alleys and back streets so I was able to find my way back to the hotel from the central square and the souks (marketplace). I bought myself a wonderful little, silver Berber hand to bring good luck and hung it on my Puerto Rican coqui necklace, and I bought a gorgeous scarf - kind of maroon, two toned with bit of gold thread. Arabic writing is so beautiful it is hard to believe it says something specific. All the decorative tiles are amazing. I visited the Bahia Palace twice as it was incredible. The art museum was closed for the holiday which went on for days. Everyone told me things were very "quiet" because of the holiday, but there was plenty it seemed to me with many shops open, street performances with music, cobras, monkeys and boxing; and lots of hustlers wanting to sell something, guide me somewhere, or just asking for money. I was so happy to  have Riad Balkisse to retreat to and recoupe. I had to find a power adapter to recharge my tablet, it cost just couple of dollars. In India I had to buy a different kind, it cost about four dollars. Then when I got to Australia and had to buy another, it was $26. But the high cost of everything in Australia is another story. My short stay in Morocco was magical, the country is worth a trip in itself, lots to see and lovely people to meet. The countryside reminded me of the southern California I knew as a child. I flew out on Royal Air Morac with a woman captain. I saw her as I was boarding and she gave me a beautiful smile, then as we started her voice came over the loudspeaker, "This is your captain." In three different languages.

Decisions Decisions

Aaarrrggggg, no matter where you go, there you are. And decisions have to be made. Minor ones like where to have my morning coffee, to bigger ones like making reservations ahead because holidays are coming up and I "should" secure transport and housing. But how do I know how long to stay until I get there? And do I post the notes I made at lunch yesterday even though I didn't complete the zoo description? Who said "if it is worth doing, it's worth doing poorly."? So this is not a polished blog, and not the perfect itinerary.

Lunch at the zoo - Cairns

Two cotton-top tamarin entertained during lunch (sorry about some pictures being on their side) there was also a koala, but it just snoozed, seems koalas sleep up to 20 hours a day. They live on ecucaliptis leaves which is the equivalant of a human living on iceburg lettuce, so always lethargic. I had a cold beer and feel like snoozing too. Cairns Tropical Zoo is a treasure, the free flight bird show was so riveting I didn't even attempt to take pictures. I am going to hang out until the end of the day to watch it again. Next is a program on marsupials and then the crocodile action. This will keep me awake. Their reptile exhibit was enough to make me reconsider hiking. But so many beautiful bird's!

Before crossing the Atlantic

There were many glimpsess of life in New York that I wanted to capture at the time: the huge farmers market at Union Square where there are still chess players; the endearing, handmade  sign at LaGuardia saying 'welcome to the big apple'; a carnival feeling in subway stations with high quality buskers; and of course the Hari Krishna contingent. It was perfect fall weather and I walked and walked, streets and parks. As I pass a woman and three children on Amsterdam Avenue watchiing a blue and silver star balloon rise up over the street, she is waving and saying "Have a good trip to Australia."

Cairns, Monday morning

Cairns, rhymes with pains. Someone took out  the R.
Today I will start making  plans for next leg of journey, that will no doubt take a few days at the rate I am moving. I have just been hanging out taking a dip in the pool here at the hostel or in the lagoon down by the ocean. You can not swim in the ocean because of deadly box jellyfish. And the water is not clear and inviting anyway. The temp has been in the high 80's and it  is humid. The rains should come soon so it is time to move further south, but not to far yet as I want to stay where it is warm. After booking next hostel I lost internet connection so went looking at mobil wifi modem. Then  took a swim to think about it. Well, decided it is worth it if it works. And it does, so new post!

New York New York

I flew from Boston to my favorite city....a free flight from Southwest, it was a use it or lose it deal.

I stayed with my long-time friend Eleanor and her giant Newfoundland Louisa, on the upper Westside and finally started planning this trip. Besides runninng around visiting museums, galleries and some of my favorite haunts, it took two days of standing in lines and filling out forms to get a visa for India. Actually it was a very efficient system considering the great volume of visas processed. The Australian visa was done online, and I decided I would have to wait until I arrived in Kenya to apply for a visa at the airport. Then big decision of the first flight: I would fly Royal Air Morac to Marrakesh with just a stop over in Casablanca to clear customs; Moracco doesn't require a visa. I then booked a room at Riad Balkisse right in the Medina, the old part of town. Next I booked a bed in a hostel in Cairns, Queensland to be sure I had a place during the eclipse. Finally I started looking at safari possibilities. That is all the planning I did before taking off. I left late night October 25th to arrive in Marrakesh about 10:30 AM the next day. It is that easy.

Back to the Beginning

October 19, 2012, with a send-off by my good neighbor David I took RIPTA to Providence and the 'T' up to Boston for chance to say goodby to my friend Cindy from Women's Caucus for Art, and Lisa formerly from  the Redwood Library. LIsa treated me to lunch at the Isabell Staurt Gardner Museum where she is now archivist, then a quick tour. Then I was free to wander about and revisit favorites. I enjoyed the sense of patterns so prevelant in the museum. A foreshadowing of the wonders of Moracco. It became clear that first day that my 're-purposed' backpack was not going to do the job. The straps were too wide apart and not padded, so off I went to the Northface store and bought a small pack that fit and distibuted the weight on my hips as well as padded shoulder straps sized to fit a woman. It is dusty pink and has done it's job  so far. I checked the weight at  the airport and it was 5.5 pounds, my purse was 2.5 pounds.

Just stopped for a dip in the  pool.

Progress I Hope

I just added blog Mobil ap, now let's see if pictures will work.

Last September, just a couple weeks back from a west coast trip I saw something about a solar eclipe in Australia in November and said, "I could be there if I wanted." And realized I really could be there. And now on November 6, 2012, I am in Jaipur India, soon to go catch a plane from Delhi to Cairns, Queensland, Australia. Let there be clear skys for the eclipse!

A new complication: seems my Android tablet does not support Flash Player, and without Flash Player I can't upload my photos. Now to find a work-around. Maybe I can keep writing and add photos later.

November 12, 2012: Now in Cairns and it is raining!

November 15, 2012: Success - took a boat out to great barrier reef early morning, leaving the clouds and rain behind. Had a perfectly clear sky for a spectacular view. The night returned as the moon covered the sun perfectly leaving the mysterious wheel of fire and stars returned for a couple of minutes. It is such a clear reminder that we can not live without the sun... My bonus was getting to see the wonders of the reef: coral, shear cliffs, colorful fish. Another good day in the world.